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Bratwurst Rillettes
After a recent trip to Madison for a visit to the Dane County Farmer’s Market, I have been longing for food from my home state. We sat across from the market at the Old Fashioned sharing cheese curds...
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Chicken Skin-Shio Koji Sausages
After the shio koji finished fermenting, I had a few ideas on how to use it. The initial idea was sausages. I was going around and around trying to find a way to make a sausage with enough simplicity...
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Instant Ramen Cured Egg Yolks
The weeks following our return from Japan proved to be a somewhat rocky re-entry. First, it reminded me how life does not wait when you are away, but rather piles up like the newspapers on your front...
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Smoked Mexican Chorizo
C is for chorizo A friend’s family has what I understand to be a long-standing annual sausage making appointment on their calendar. While our family has its own traditions I love and appreciate, I can...
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Lamb Heart Andouille
A fifteen minute walk through a small-town Wisconsin farmer’s market yielded some of the finest variety meats I have had in some time for prices so low I could not fathom how there was so much to buy....
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Smoked Beef Tongue
“Italian Beef” Tongue With a large and growing cookbook collection, I get asked by friends who may not have the same cookbook issues, “How do you choose which book to cook from – much less what to cook...
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Schwartenwurst
What, you have never heard of Schwartenwurst (formerly hautwurst, see below)? Do not worry a bit because it is made up. With football season upon us, I wanted to make a batch of bratwurst, but make the...
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Duck and Black Trumpet Salumi
Duck is delicious. It has a rich and complex flavor. It should make great sausage. However, I have made duck sausages multiple times and never once liked them. Every time, the classic flavors I paired...
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Huitlacoche & Smoked Corn Pate
We moved out of the city almost a year and a half ago. It seems like ages ago, but really has not been. However, what we found in the burbs from a dining perspective can be described most nicely as...
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Ham Shank Terrine
Life has been busier than normal and the time I spend in the kitchen, one of my favorite ways to unwind, has been inconsistent. In an effort to simplify and refocus my kitchen hobby, I went back to an...
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Smoked Chicken Liver Mousse
Over much of the fall and early winter, I’ve been working on building a cold smoker made from a bullet smoker, chimney pipe and cinder blocks. I am 90% there and the smoker is fully functional. The...
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Venison Vindaloo Sausages
Paging through one of the most beautiful cookbooks I have seen, I came to a version of my takeout Indian dish of choice. The photo in the book was inspiringly beautiful, especially compared to the...
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Rillons
In the wise words of Jennifer McLagan, rillons are “a big brother of rillettes and less work.” Knowing the wise words from her blog would likely be detailed in one of her great cookbooks, I went to my...
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‘Ndouille
‘Ndouille has been percolating in my head for a few years. Andouille in the form of ‘nduja. Smoky, spicy and spreadable. When it came time to put the idea into action, it did not work. It was smoky,...
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Bringing Aroma Oil to Chicken Soup
Spending time in airports lately, I have been thinking back to our trip to Japan. After an hour waiting for a plane, the thoughts invariably go to the ramen we had. One of things that has been eating...
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Smoked Marrow Hot Dogs
With the February temperatures dropping below zero, I changed the cold smoking set-up to be a Lil’ Smokey Joe grill in the cinder block smokehouse with a shelving unit beside it. After trying to...
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Pig Tails Al Pastor
Around 8 PM on New Year’s Eve, we were in the midst of the second course of our annual lower-case-b bacchanalia at The Butcher and Larder. A cast iron skillet was piled high with pig’s tails and...
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Corned Beef Bacon
Everyone is on year three of bacon fatigue. I mean, if someone is wrapping pepperoni pizza in bacon, and not pepperoni or better yet, nothing, we are not in good times. With that in mind, when you...
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Veal Fingers
The phenomenon of being bombarded with packaged, mass-produced junk food likely is not limited to those of us parenting, but it sure seems like I am fighting to push back chicken nuggets, fish sticks,...
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City Hamb
A few years ago, I made a dry-cured, long aged lamb ham. Results were mixed. It was delicious, but a little dry. My opinion is lamb ham, which has gotten a big press push this Easter season, suffers...
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